Almost a Year in Hong Kong. Here’s Another Evaluation

You may recall my last blog post, which reviewed my move to Hong Kong after four months. Now, nearly a year on, I feel the time has come for the second part. An analysis of Hong Kong life and society post honeymoon period, which touches upon good and bad points.

Being an expat is both a blessing and a curse

Being an overseas born and raised Chinese lifts you above others in the eyes of some Hong Kong people.  You can speak English more fluently than them, you’re seen as more confident and outspoken, you have more knowledge on all things western that people find so glamorous over here. You are exotic, yet also familiar because of your Chinese heritage. Some people are extremely impressed. Some women might find you more attractive.

Locals see you in a restaurant speaking English to your over Chinese friends, and then try to impress you by speaking jittery English to their friend as well, in a volume just loud enough so you can over hear (I’ve already lost count on how many times this has happened).

But for all the benefits being an overseas born and raised Chinese brings, there are also drawbacks.

Other sections of Hong Kong society, particularly the older generation, measure you against their mental checklist of things that make you Chinese. Your Cantonese is judged; your knowledge of Chinese traditions and cuisines is tested; your family background is scrutinized, your fondness for drinking alcohol like white people is laughed at. Because you look Chinese, you will always be judged as one.

For some, I know this can be tiresome, particularly when the questioning and teasing becomes malicious. But for the most part, it is just playful banter from a culture that likes to “take the piss” just like we do in Britain.

Being white also puts you in a similar position. Some in Hong Kong still have the colonial mentality – a desire to become like the westerners that once ruled. Therefore white people can be placed on pedestals at times.

Others hate westerners. Subjecting them to racial abuse. But of course, not everyone is like that. The majority of Hong Kong citizens are respectful and tolerant. After all, this is one of the most popular destinations for expats.

Western Countries are all Lumped Together by Some

In much the same way that some westerners see Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Taiwanese, Thai, Vietnamese and every other East Asian culture as being the same – some Hong Kongers also do the same as well.

It is understandable. A lot of the countries in western culture have influenced each other, or even been borne out of another western country (Australia and American for example).

Yet I find it highly amusing when I’m introduced to, for example, a French person with the belief from the local host that we will instantly get on because we are from the west. This is despite the fact said French person can only speak broken English, and I speak French like a five-year-old child.

Similarly, some locals find it hard to believe when I tell them that American and British culture actually is not that similar at all, and that we probably share more affinity with Australian culture.

Image and Status is everything out here

Perfectly cut suits, thousand-dollar handbags, black credit card. – image is key. Well it is to be expected from one of the most capitalist societies on earth.

And let’s not forget the business card with your impressive title, that you must hand out with two hands (with a slight bow) to any new professional contact you meet. 

Oh and don’t forget to receive their business cards with two hands, pretend to read it and – don’t you dare put it away in your pocket! Leave it out on the table in his view, for the whole duration of your meeting with him. Respect the name card!

Time is Money. Money is Time

I touched upon the speed at which decisions are made, and work is completed here in Hong Kong in my last blog post. But the thing I didn’t mention is how it permeates into social life as well.

There is no such thing as a slow weekend with no plans, where you decide on Saturday morning with to do with your mates. Everyone plans in advance, no one wastes time.

I recall doing karaoke with local Hong Kongers, and the pushiness of getting through songs so we can sing all the tracks we want in our allocated time.

Or being told hurry up and drink my scalding hot soup, that was just literally placed before me by the waiter at a lunch.

Time is money and money is time, even when you’re supposed to be slowing down and enjoying yourself.

Most Western Brands are Considered Luxury out here

Pret a Manger - a staple of the London office worker is rare out here. And because it’s western, it’s seen as exotic and almost a luxury. Much in the same way a British office coos whenever someone buys a Thai Takeaway for lunch.

Marks and Spencer, already fairly upper market in the UK, is pretty much high class out here. And let’s not mention how even more dear the pricing is…

Macanese People are a Different Breed of Chinese People

Of course, I don’t mean this in a horrible racist way. Rather I mean this in a jovial, appreciate their difference way. I mean, what’s the first thing you think of when you are asked to describe the behaviours of Chinese people? Money driven, extremely hard working, borderline ruthless when it comes to business.

Well Macanese people (the citizens of the once former Portuguese colony of Macau) just aren’t. Or at least they have had their Chinese traits toned down significantly by five hundred years of Portuguese culture and influence. 

They are very laid back and to say the pace of life is slower there is an understatement.

Their approach to life is the complete opposite to those in Hong Kong. And I can say this with a degree of certainty, as my girlfriend lives there.

You miss Football and Pub culture, but this is replaced with other pleasures

Watching the afternoon kick off on a weekend with your mates, sipping a pint whilst taking it easy. Doesn’t really exist out here. If you go out to drink, you will be doing it at night, and more than likely you will be doing it to get drunk.

So for all the English football and pub culture I miss, you replace it with:-

actually playing football; hiking and camping to stunning mountains and beaches;  discovering new restaurants; enjoying the sun (which is a far more familiar sight here than in the UK), meeting new people (far more easy here than in the UK), and exploring those shops and bars hidden away in the higher floors of buildings that somehow seem to receive enough customers for them to pay their eye watering rent.

And to Summarise…

Though it may seem I have been slightly more negative in this post compared to my previous one, I can assure you my mood is far from it. I still think Hong Kong is a fantastic, dynamic, convenient and astonishingly intriguing place.  I have only made deeper analysis of the observations I have of this culture and city. 

Some things are peculiar, some are annoying. But on the whole, it’s still an incredible place, and I cannot foresee a time when I’ll move back to the UK.

It's Been Four Months Since I Moved to Hong Kong

Approaching the four month mark of my move to Hong Kong, and to say it’s been a change would be an understatement. On the whole, the experience has been largely positive. But other aspects of my experience have simply made me think, in no uncertain terms, “WTF?!”

Although Hong Kong was already a familiar place to me as a consequence of having Cantonese parents, I am still able to view the whole experience through the eyes of a British person. Some of the cultural differences are intriguing.

As you would expect, an evaluation of my employment will form part of my review, so I will refrain from mentioning my company name, names of colleagues – or being too critical J

The Work

It is fast paced out here. Back in London, I often heard Northerners complaining about pressure and pace of the capital. Well Hong Kong is three times faster. The managers expect more of you, the clients expect even more.

It really is a good place to test how good you really are at your job, and how much pressure you can handle. There are no places to hide. Individuals who spend their time dossing around in the office, and leaving the work to others will be quickly weeded out. Sink or swim. Go hard or go home.

The Locals

They are loud and direct to the point of being rude; yet also quiet, meek and not as confident at expressing their opinions.

How is it possible to be both, you wonder? Well their environment and status determines their behavior.

Out on the street, in the restaurants and in the shops, Hong Kong locals will address you directly and clearly. If you’re slow to respond, they’ll tell you to hurry up. If you speak too quietly, they’ll tell you to speak louder. If you can’t decide on what food to order on the menu, well you’ll be getting an earful from the waiter on wasting time and faffing around.

There are no please, thank yous and excuse mes that I’ve grown up with in British culture. In fact, you’d be lucky to get so much as a glance back at you, if someone bumps past you on the street or on public transport.

Similarly, if you start a sentence with “sorry” after accidently rubbing shoulders with someone on an MTR carriage, you’ll get a load of odd looks at your over politeness.

Yet in the office, the whole dynamics suddenly change. Hong Kong people become polite and quieter. They listen to the boss, they follow instructions, and they generally refrain from sticking their neck out.

In office meetings, it’s the seniors, the overseas Chinese and expats who lead, talk and express themselves. The locals stay quiet.

Compare this to a British office, where most meetings involve people vying to express their opinions on the subject at hand, and where the manager will often encourage his workers to think of better solutions to the problem.

This aspect of Hong Kong culture seems to run true in a lot of East Asian countries. As many of the locals have told me, it is down largely to the education system. East Asians are taught to listen and learn in school and university.

Follow the books, do the work, and hand it in.

There’s no critical thinking, no debates or presentations as in Western education – and questioning the teacher is forbidden. This is therefore carried over into the office environment.

It’s not a criticism of Hong Kong working culture, just an observation. Although I have heard a few locals mention that for this reason, they would send their children overseas for an education. And oftentimes, I feel like the loudmouth in meetings.

The Life Outside Work

The United Kingdom just does not compare.

Hong Kong has a plethora of restaurants, most of them a lot more affordable than back in Blighty. In fact, my kitchen in my apartment has only been used five times in the four months I have lived here.

Then you have stunning mountain landscapes, the sandy beaches, the villages, the islands – and not to mention the city skyline and sights.

If I’m ever feeling stressed out from work, all I have to do is stroll out to these places and witness the magnificence of human architecture, set against a backdrop of natural beauty.

The nightlife is pretty good here as well. Outside from the main strip of clubs and bars in Lan Kwai Fong, there are also plenty of other bars hidden away in the skyscrapers.

Then there's also the boat parties and pool parties. None of this possible in Britain's two weeks of sunshine in the summer.

The only criticism I have, is the lack of pub culture as we have in Britain. Although there are British style pubs, the idea of a lazy Sunday lunchtime sipping a pint with mates, whilst waiting for the afternoon kickoff does not exist here.

And of course, British people are perhaps a bit more wild on a night out then Hong Kongers. Mostly down to the fact they’re more willingly to drink to the point of inebriation, make a fool of themselves, not care and laugh about it with their friends the next day. If I do that here, I often get criticized for going too far.

But all of this is nitpicking really.

The Humour

Surprisingly, British sarcasm and wit seems to translate very well into the Cantonese language.

Oftentimes I feel frustrated when talking to Americans, who don’t seem to understand when I’m being serious, and when I’m not.

But the Hong Kongers totally get it. In fact, “taking the piss” out of your friends and colleagues, and having a bit of “banter” is as much a part of Hong Kong humour, as it is with British humour. You just need to be able to speak the language.

The Overseas Chinese and Expats

They say London is a very multicultural city, where you can meet people from different parts of the world easily.

I would say the first part of that claim is true.

Hong Kong also has people from many different cultures coming to live and work. These people tend to be a lot more friendly, and open to talking to you compared to London, where most people stay in their defined cultural groups.

I don’t know what it is about us Brits, but unless we’ve had a few pints, we find it difficult to connect with new people.

“Standoffishness” as we’re labeled. We’re too busy thinking of what’s appropriate to say, and what’s polite. This also makes London a somewhat cold, and unfriendly city as a lot of outsiders have said.

But here in Hong Kong, everyone changes. Even us Brits to an extent. Maybe it’s the sun, the cramped spaces encouraging people to stand closer together, and the direct culture of everyone in the city. But I do feel people are more open and friendly, and most of the time, just more genuine.

The American expats and Chinese are the most direct and confident. The Canadians have that confidence, but are bit more polite. And the Australians are just like us Brits, except they smile more and are a bit more optimistic.

The Football

And by this, I’m talking about amateur football. Weekend league stuff that I partake in. It’s certainly different.

In my team, we have a mix of local Hong Kong people, overseas Chinese and expats. People from all over the world are in the team – British, French, Spanish, South American – even North Americans as well from the US of A.

All of them bring their own distinct brand of football from their countries.

The Brits are the loudest  and most physical on the pitch. We’re barking orders, we’re shouting, we’re clapping people who make a routine clearance or simple tackles. We go shoulders in, slide in for most our challenges, and we “don’t fuck about at the back”.

Surprisingly, a lot of local Hong Kong footballers are actually quite skillful. They just lack the build and physicality, and are easily pushed off the ball by the bigger overseas Chinese and expats.

Locals don’t jump for aerial balls either. Frustrating when you see two or three goals end up in the back of your net, because no one has bothered to try and jump to head a corner kick away.

So there you have it. My review of four months here in Hong Kong.

Another one to come in a couple more months time.

I’ve lost patience with the ignorant, hateful racism towards the Chinese.

Source: https://www.facebook.com/SmallDogRescueUK

That’s it. I’ve completely and utterly lost patience with the ignorance and hatred towards people from my racial and cultural background

Over the past few weeks, a number of news stories concerning the strange or appalling actions of a few people in China have been circulated.

Stories like this one, where a man was filmed beating puppies to death in a market in China. Another story also concerned a man apparently divorcing and suing his wife, for being ugly and deceiving him with cosmetic surgery.

In the past, we have also had stories from China about a baby that was apparently flushed down a toilet. Another story about a Chinese girl who was hit and killed by a car on a busy road, with seemingly none of the bystanders stepping in to help.

And then there are the constant stories and campaigns against the barbaric treatment of animals of China, and the moral debate on dog meat for human consumption.

All this sensationalism serves to do, is to encourage ignorance and racism against the Chinese.

Every time one of these stories breaks, certain sections of people in society deem it necessary to use the following adjectives to describe people from my community: Barbaric, disgusting, backward, even “subhuman” – as was uttered by the singer Morrissey.

And what is worse is more and more people seem to be buying into these new stories, and believing that the behaviours of the few Chinese people highlighted are representative of the billions of other Chinese across the world. Gradually these views are becoming mainstream.

I’ve had to read comments on Facebook and newspapers, which generalise and stigmatise the whole Chinese race because of these stories they have read.

Source:  http://metro.co.uk/2013/11/12/man-beats-five-puppies-to-death-in-front-of-horrified-shoppers-after-one-bites-his-finger-4183246/

I’ve seen them make ridiculous decisions to boycott or attack Chinese takeaways and restaurants, because they read some story about a dog being mistreated in China.

When I often point out their ignorance, I am attacked by these people. In one Facebook group in particular, when I pointed out the ignorance displayed, my comments were deleted and I was banned from the group. This is the group in question: https://www.facebook.com/SmallDogRescueUK

Let me bloody tell you this.

I and the vast majority of Chinese people out there, are similarly appalled at the man in China who beat those puppies to death.

We are appalled at the girl that was left to die in the road.

And guess what? We also think the guy who divorced his wife for being ugly was also a ridiculous. That's if the story was even true in the first place.

How can you possibly make the judgment that all the billions of Chinese people are the same based on a few news stories? That we are all barbaric? That we all like to abuse animals, and make them suffer for fun? How ignorant are some of you?

Does the fact a few news stories of high profile British celebrities being jailed for pedophilia, mean I can make the generalisation that all white British people are pedophiles? No it doesn’t.

Please open up your narrow minds, and stop making sweeping generalisations about my community.

We are sick and tired of this ignorance and racism towards us and we have had enough.

Source: https://www.facebook.com/MetroUK/posts/600003480034944

I urge all Chinese people read this now to share this blog. Or even better, write your own blog on this. Write into newspapers, magazines. Complain to the media owners who allow their readers to continue to perpetuate and spread racist and ignorant comments.

Because unless we do something about it, these views will eventually become almost mainstream.

Sleep. Why claiming you have so little doesn’t make you hard – it just makes you a f*cking idiot.

Sleep is under rated. So so under rated.

And unfortunately we are sleep walking towards significant health problems and shorter lives, by not having more of it. Excuse the pun.

As working hours get longer, social lives busier, and social activities more plentiful, we are developing a ridiculous macho attitude towards sleep.

Nothing makes me roll my eyes more when I hear of people boasting about how little sleep they had before a working day. 

This is especially the case in industries like investment banking. Where staying in the office as late as possible, and getting as little sleep as possible, is a marker of how much of a man you are and how valuable an employee you are. 

And as this recent news story demonstrates, it can often result in tragic consequences: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-24049679

In the Far East, the problem is far worse. Much longer working hours, much less annual leave and free weekends to rest those weary eyes. There is an acceptance in Hong Kong, for example, that most people working in office jobs will regularly get home just before midnight, before having to wake up at 6am again the next day.

I have a friend in Japan whose boyfriend is a heart surgeon. He only gets 5 hours sleep a night. I don’t know about you, but if I was about to go into hospital for a heart transplant, I wouldn’t want a sleep deprived surgeon operating on me.

And neither do I want bankers, whose very actions have a significant impact on the global economy, going into work with no sleep whatsoever.

Unfortunately for me, I have inherited my mother’s need for long and undisturbed sleep. Anything less than eight hours a night messes with my concentration levels, irritability levels and causes me to do things I would never normally do.

In fact, I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t jave written this blog if I wasn’t so damn tired today.

I will also be likely to be inheriting my father’s type 2 diabetes in my later years of life, which will almost certainly add to my exhaustion. Lucky me.

I take a dim view on people who regularly survive on five hours or less sleep a night, and seem to think that because they can do it, everyone else in the world can. Hey guess what, Usain Bolt can run 100 metres in 9.58 seconds. Surely YOU can do it as well.

I don’t know the exact health implications of not getting the required amount of sleep each night. But I’m pretty sure it will age you quicker, increase your risk of strokes and heart attacks – oh and probably take a few years off your life.

But hey, if boasting about how little sleep you get makes you think you’re billy big bollocks, then by all means please continue.

I’ll see you at your early funeral.

Self Haters are worse than Racists

Turn on subtitles to understand the video.

Racism is an ugly concept in every sense. But the thing that hurts deep down, even more so than racism, is self hating racism.

I can never, ever accept someone from my own race discriminating against Chinese people and other East Asians. When slavery still existed in America, black slave owners were seen as the worst of the very worst by black people.

And in a sense, that’s how I also see self hating Chinese people.

It’s a cancer in our community. A really hurtful cancer.

It’s not that I believe that every ethnic minority should be completely and utterly loyal and devoted to their race. That in itself, can be said to be racist. But, at the very least, they shouldn’t be hateful to their own community. Surely that’s not too much to ask?

So yes, strong words from me, and I have good reason to say so.

I have, on many occasions, met people from my own race who directly said they don’t like hanging around Chinese people. Or saw their parent culture as embarrassing and shameful. Sometimes it wasn’t a direct word. More of a general attitude towards me and my race – which so happens to be their race as well. In some cases, you can feel real disgust in their voice.

It really does hurt to see and feel this.

And the thing that most upsets me is that it’s a prevailing attitude, and one that could potentially destroy the Chinese community.

These problems don’t just exist with westernized Chinese who have grown up in the UK, America, Australia or in other westerns culture. It seems to be a deeply ingrained problem in Chinese culture altogether.

There is an inferiority complex that runs with many Chinese people. A belief that westerners should held in high regard, and that we should look up to them. And this leads to Chinese people treating them better, and discriminating against their own community. It seems that a lot of East Asians have never shaken off the colonial attitudes of the past.

How does this manifest itself?

• Western models being used in advertising in China, resulting in perceived better brand image and more products being sold by the company. Because that’s what the consumers want to see.

• An English teacher of Chinese origin, who can speak perfect English, yet is overlooked by the school in China because the head would prefer a western looking person teaching English.

• Chinese people flaunting their western boyfriend or husband, in an attempt to show everyone the apparent social ladder they have climbed. And let’s be clear here, I’m not against mixed relationships – in fact I’m all for them. But what I’m not for, is relationships that have been formed by one person for an ulterior motive.

• Surgery by many Chinese people to alter their features to more western features.

• General preferential treatment given to westerners.

There are so many examples which I could reel off.

Let’s be clear here, I’m not western person bashing. As I said earlier in this article, racism is ugly. What I am bashing however is the absurd inferiority complex some sections of the Chinese community have. 

The putting of the westerner on the pedestal, as I like to call it.

Until we learn to address these internal community issues, we are never going to be able to tackle racism.

And sadly, I don’t think we ever will.