It's Been Four Months Since I Moved to Hong Kong

Approaching the four month mark of my move to Hong Kong, and to say it’s been a change would be an understatement. On the whole, the experience has been largely positive. But other aspects of my experience have simply made me think, in no uncertain terms, “WTF?!”

Although Hong Kong was already a familiar place to me as a consequence of having Cantonese parents, I am still able to view the whole experience through the eyes of a British person. Some of the cultural differences are intriguing.

As you would expect, an evaluation of my employment will form part of my review, so I will refrain from mentioning my company name, names of colleagues – or being too critical J

The Work

It is fast paced out here. Back in London, I often heard Northerners complaining about pressure and pace of the capital. Well Hong Kong is three times faster. The managers expect more of you, the clients expect even more.

It really is a good place to test how good you really are at your job, and how much pressure you can handle. There are no places to hide. Individuals who spend their time dossing around in the office, and leaving the work to others will be quickly weeded out. Sink or swim. Go hard or go home.

The Locals

They are loud and direct to the point of being rude; yet also quiet, meek and not as confident at expressing their opinions.

How is it possible to be both, you wonder? Well their environment and status determines their behavior.

Out on the street, in the restaurants and in the shops, Hong Kong locals will address you directly and clearly. If you’re slow to respond, they’ll tell you to hurry up. If you speak too quietly, they’ll tell you to speak louder. If you can’t decide on what food to order on the menu, well you’ll be getting an earful from the waiter on wasting time and faffing around.

There are no please, thank yous and excuse mes that I’ve grown up with in British culture. In fact, you’d be lucky to get so much as a glance back at you, if someone bumps past you on the street or on public transport.

Similarly, if you start a sentence with “sorry” after accidently rubbing shoulders with someone on an MTR carriage, you’ll get a load of odd looks at your over politeness.

Yet in the office, the whole dynamics suddenly change. Hong Kong people become polite and quieter. They listen to the boss, they follow instructions, and they generally refrain from sticking their neck out.

In office meetings, it’s the seniors, the overseas Chinese and expats who lead, talk and express themselves. The locals stay quiet.

Compare this to a British office, where most meetings involve people vying to express their opinions on the subject at hand, and where the manager will often encourage his workers to think of better solutions to the problem.

This aspect of Hong Kong culture seems to run true in a lot of East Asian countries. As many of the locals have told me, it is down largely to the education system. East Asians are taught to listen and learn in school and university.

Follow the books, do the work, and hand it in.

There’s no critical thinking, no debates or presentations as in Western education – and questioning the teacher is forbidden. This is therefore carried over into the office environment.

It’s not a criticism of Hong Kong working culture, just an observation. Although I have heard a few locals mention that for this reason, they would send their children overseas for an education. And oftentimes, I feel like the loudmouth in meetings.

The Life Outside Work

The United Kingdom just does not compare.

Hong Kong has a plethora of restaurants, most of them a lot more affordable than back in Blighty. In fact, my kitchen in my apartment has only been used five times in the four months I have lived here.

Then you have stunning mountain landscapes, the sandy beaches, the villages, the islands – and not to mention the city skyline and sights.

If I’m ever feeling stressed out from work, all I have to do is stroll out to these places and witness the magnificence of human architecture, set against a backdrop of natural beauty.

The nightlife is pretty good here as well. Outside from the main strip of clubs and bars in Lan Kwai Fong, there are also plenty of other bars hidden away in the skyscrapers.

Then there's also the boat parties and pool parties. None of this possible in Britain's two weeks of sunshine in the summer.

The only criticism I have, is the lack of pub culture as we have in Britain. Although there are British style pubs, the idea of a lazy Sunday lunchtime sipping a pint with mates, whilst waiting for the afternoon kickoff does not exist here.

And of course, British people are perhaps a bit more wild on a night out then Hong Kongers. Mostly down to the fact they’re more willingly to drink to the point of inebriation, make a fool of themselves, not care and laugh about it with their friends the next day. If I do that here, I often get criticized for going too far.

But all of this is nitpicking really.

The Humour

Surprisingly, British sarcasm and wit seems to translate very well into the Cantonese language.

Oftentimes I feel frustrated when talking to Americans, who don’t seem to understand when I’m being serious, and when I’m not.

But the Hong Kongers totally get it. In fact, “taking the piss” out of your friends and colleagues, and having a bit of “banter” is as much a part of Hong Kong humour, as it is with British humour. You just need to be able to speak the language.

The Overseas Chinese and Expats

They say London is a very multicultural city, where you can meet people from different parts of the world easily.

I would say the first part of that claim is true.

Hong Kong also has people from many different cultures coming to live and work. These people tend to be a lot more friendly, and open to talking to you compared to London, where most people stay in their defined cultural groups.

I don’t know what it is about us Brits, but unless we’ve had a few pints, we find it difficult to connect with new people.

“Standoffishness” as we’re labeled. We’re too busy thinking of what’s appropriate to say, and what’s polite. This also makes London a somewhat cold, and unfriendly city as a lot of outsiders have said.

But here in Hong Kong, everyone changes. Even us Brits to an extent. Maybe it’s the sun, the cramped spaces encouraging people to stand closer together, and the direct culture of everyone in the city. But I do feel people are more open and friendly, and most of the time, just more genuine.

The American expats and Chinese are the most direct and confident. The Canadians have that confidence, but are bit more polite. And the Australians are just like us Brits, except they smile more and are a bit more optimistic.

The Football

And by this, I’m talking about amateur football. Weekend league stuff that I partake in. It’s certainly different.

In my team, we have a mix of local Hong Kong people, overseas Chinese and expats. People from all over the world are in the team – British, French, Spanish, South American – even North Americans as well from the US of A.

All of them bring their own distinct brand of football from their countries.

The Brits are the loudest  and most physical on the pitch. We’re barking orders, we’re shouting, we’re clapping people who make a routine clearance or simple tackles. We go shoulders in, slide in for most our challenges, and we “don’t fuck about at the back”.

Surprisingly, a lot of local Hong Kong footballers are actually quite skillful. They just lack the build and physicality, and are easily pushed off the ball by the bigger overseas Chinese and expats.

Locals don’t jump for aerial balls either. Frustrating when you see two or three goals end up in the back of your net, because no one has bothered to try and jump to head a corner kick away.

So there you have it. My review of four months here in Hong Kong.

Another one to come in a couple more months time.