Wednesday, 27 April 2016

Singapore vs Hong Kong – Rivalry in Asia


For people who have never been to either, Hong Kong and Singapore probably seem like very similar places. Both city states of roughly the same size in land mass and population. Both popular destinations for expats looking for adventure in Asia. Both heavily driven by the financial services industry.

However my recent trip to Singapore proved to me that there are far more differences than similarities, and that both places cater for very different types of people. In this article, I will go through the key criteria that I usually evaluate a place by.


Food

Both places are fantastic destinations for food lovers. However, to get a better understanding of how good, you need to split between local and international food.

Singapore’s local food wins resoundingly. Both in terms of satisfaction and how readily available it is. One of the city’s most defining aspects of its culture are the plentiful hawker centres in almost every area. These are complexes that house many food stalls, with tables and chairs for patrons. Think of it as a huge, open air food court.

And the food at these places is fantastic.  Singapore’s three largest communities (The Chinese, Indians and Malays) all contribute towards the city’s food culture, with incredibly delicious food which is, to an extent, localized and adapted.

Take the Chinese food for example. Over the course of history, many of the dishes have had local Singaporean ingredients and ideas added to produce an end product which is, in my opinion, better than the original piece.

Of course, Hong Kong does have some fantastic local food. And it does have some hawker centres. But unfortunately, increasing regulation and red tape have slowly begun to kill off these places.

However, where Singapore wins in local food, it is edged out in international food. The slightly longer history of the expatriate community in Hong Kong, and the ease of setting up business, has meant Hong Kong has far more international food of a higher quality. You can find high quality food from almost all major western cultures in Hong Kong.


Culture and Historical Sights

This is one area where Singapore almost definitely loses. In fact, I would go as far as to say that lack of culture and historical sights is one of the defining aspects of Singapore.

Of course, there a few handful of temples and colonial buildings dotted around the city, reminding us that is a place that has had a history. But these are far and few between.

In fact, if your two major sights are a luxury hotel and nature park that was built only five years ago on reclaimed land from the sea, you know you’re clutching at straws.

Contrast this with Hong Kong, where former British government buildings built a hundred years ago are interspersed with Chinese temples, built even longer ago, across the city. Go further into the suburbs, villages and outlying islands and you will uncover records of Hakka communities that have been preserved in writing on the walls of old style village houses.

You very much get the sense that Hong Kong has one foot planted in the past, whilst the other foot is planted in the present. Whereas in Singapore, both feet are planted firmly in the future.


People and Society

We spoke to a few people in Singapore, mostly taxi drivers. What impressed me most was their pride in Singapore, and most notably, their pride in a multicultural society that accepts and respects people from many different cultures.

One taxi driver in particular, talked about how important it was in Singaporean society to respect other cultures.

Singapore is a vastly diverse city. 74% Chinese, 13% Malay, 9% Indian, and the rest made of various other ethnic groups, including a sizeable western community.

Racial harmony and equality is a key facet of Singaporean culture. “Racial Harmony” day is celebrated on 21st July in Schools, and respect for other cultures and religions is heavily emphasized by the government.

Hong Kong’s population is not quite so diverse although it does have a fairly sizeable south east and south Asian community, as well as a western community.

However you do get the sense, that people from certain communities are not treated equally or even looked down upon by some people in Hong Kong, which is a little bit disappointing to see.

One thing I did notice with Singaporeans is that although they do show a lot of pride in their city, you do get the sense that this pride is completely unwavering.

It’s almost like an American style of patriotism: strong but does not take criticism well.

Contrast this with Hong Kong pride which is quiet, slightly more modest with heavy doses of self deprecation.

In fact, that is the one thing I enjoy most about Hong Kong people – their ability to see what is wrong with their city and themselves, and to be able to joke and laugh about it. A very British way of viewing life.

I have, on numerous occasions, heard Hong Kong people jokingly criticize the way their city is managed by the government, or made sarcastic comments on how their own people behave in public.

When you look at the history and present situation of both cities, you can see why the people have developed such behaviours.

Singapore’s independence from British colonial rule was hugely supported by their population, and the building of an independent state pulled their community together. To be a Singaporean, is to be proud of what the city has achieved since its independence.

Hong Kong, on the other hand, reluctantly parted ways with Great Britain after Margaret Thatcher conceded the city state to China in her negotiations.

For a lot of Hong Kong people, the political future is bleak due to the impending loss of self governance by 2047. The city has gone through disorder as well, such as the 1967 leftist riots and 2003 SARS outbreak, amongst numerous other events.

A resilience, an ability to self criticize and laugh at one’s own city was developed.

You get the sense that many Singaporeans are reluctant to speak up against their country and their government. Unsurprising, due to the strict laws and regulations on many areas of life.

Whereas Hong Kong people will take any opportunity to protest against sort of issue they feel is an injustice.

One final thing I will mention in this section is the pace of life.

Singaporeans are far more relaxed and their customer service pays more attention to friendliness and treating the customer well.

Conversely in Hong Kong, you quickly learn that you are judged on the speed at which you do things. I have lost count on the number of times I’ve been rushed by a waiter or shop worker to make a decision or pay for my items.

Often times I feel customer service people are reciting their lines from a script, rather than actually ensuring I get a good experience.


Weather

It’s hot in Singapore 365 days of the year. Almost unbearably hot sometimes. So much so that walking more than a few minutes outside will result in your shirt being drenched in sweat.

It's hot in Hong Kong from May to September. Then autumn hits and then winter follows, and it gets pretty chilly. Although nowhere near as cold as the UK.


Transport

There’s almost no difference here. Both have incredibly efficient transport networks that are cheap and reliable and put London’s system to shame.

Both have world class airports. Hong Kong’s is attractive, functional and efficient.

Singapore is all of the above but also highly innovative. Free massage chairs, free nap areas, free cinema rooms, swimming pool, fish pond, butterfly garden – to a name a few of the features. It is probably the most pleasant place to be stranded if your flight is delayed.


The Urban Areas

Singapore is a fairly pleasant city. It is roughly the same size as Hong Kong, but there is far more land to build on. This results in wider streets, bigger apartments and a general feeling of openness.

Additionally, the Singaporean government seems to do a relatively good job of city planning. They immediately tear down housing complexes that are showing signs of wear and tear, and swiftly build new ones in its place for its residents. Most of the time, these apartments are relatively aesthetically pleasing.

Hong Kong’s land is mostly taken up by mountains which are virtually impossibly to build on. Consequently, in order to make good use of the space, high rises are built. And these are some of the tallest high rises in the world.

Hong Kong’s skyline is stunning and iconic. Buildings like the Bank of China and the IFC define the skyline and feature in Hollywood movies.

But for every magnificent skyscraper, there are at least two ugly buildings. This is particularly the case in suburbian areas like Sha Tin, which was built in the 1970s by the British Colonial government, and based off the council estates in the United Kingdom.

Hong Kong’s streets are also tight and winding and almost unsuitable for motor traffic.

However Hong Kong’s limitation is also its charm as well. Many businesses are forced to lease premises on the upper floors of high rises, due to the lower cost of rent.

These businesses gain customers through advertising on the internet, from signs jutting out from their windows, and from word of mouth.

Urban exploration is a major part of living in Hong Kong. Often times you will wander into an old, crumbling block of apartments (most likely built in the 1960s) and go up in the rickety lift to discover a shop that sells exactly what you have been looking for.

Sometimes you even discover trendy looking restaurants, bar or nightclubs between the 10th and 20th floors of the most unlikely buildings.


Nature and the Outdoors

This is Hong Kong’s hidden secret. As mentioned earlier, only a small part of the land is urbanized, the vast majority of Hong Kong’s land is mountains and forest.

There are plentiful hiking trails and beaches, many hidden and requiring a bit of effort and sense of adventure to “discover” them.

Then there are the many outlying islands to be explored, some abandoned and uninhibited, but with remnants of a past community’s presence.

Singapore does not seem to have any of this. It’s relatively flat land surface enables their urban sprawl to spread over most of the area.

It main beaches, located on Sentosa island, are pleasant but you very much get the sense it was all designed and constructed, with the sand shipped in from elsewhere.


Cost of Living

In comparison to other Asian countries, both Singapore and Hong Kong are fairly expensive. Almost on par with western European countries.

The major savings are on food (that’s if you eat like a local) and travel. Rent is pretty expensive in Singapore (from what I’ve researched) and it’s extortionate in Hong Kong. You quickly get used to the fact that more than half your monthly salary will go to your landlord.


Conclusion


To conclude, Hong Kong and Singapore are two different places. Singapore is a safe, well planned, friendly, tolerant, progressive and strictly governed city which is somewhat sanitized. A great place to raise a family.


Hong Kong is wilder, fast paced, energetic city with many urban and natural discoveries to be made. It has a lot more character, and demands a lot more character from its residents. It is a great place to be young.

For me, Hong Kong wins it resoundingly. Its more free, more intense and it suits my personality and lifestyle far more. With all due respect to Singapore residents, your city does feel a tad bit sanitised and controlled.

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