Almost a Year in Hong Kong. Here’s Another Evaluation

You may recall my last blog post, which reviewed my move to Hong Kong after four months. Now, nearly a year on, I feel the time has come for the second part. An analysis of Hong Kong life and society post honeymoon period, which touches upon good and bad points.

Being an expat is both a blessing and a curse

Being an overseas born and raised Chinese lifts you above others in the eyes of some Hong Kong people.  You can speak English more fluently than them, you’re seen as more confident and outspoken, you have more knowledge on all things western that people find so glamorous over here. You are exotic, yet also familiar because of your Chinese heritage. Some people are extremely impressed. Some women might find you more attractive.

Locals see you in a restaurant speaking English to your over Chinese friends, and then try to impress you by speaking jittery English to their friend as well, in a volume just loud enough so you can over hear (I’ve already lost count on how many times this has happened).

But for all the benefits being an overseas born and raised Chinese brings, there are also drawbacks.

Other sections of Hong Kong society, particularly the older generation, measure you against their mental checklist of things that make you Chinese. Your Cantonese is judged; your knowledge of Chinese traditions and cuisines is tested; your family background is scrutinized, your fondness for drinking alcohol like white people is laughed at. Because you look Chinese, you will always be judged as one.

For some, I know this can be tiresome, particularly when the questioning and teasing becomes malicious. But for the most part, it is just playful banter from a culture that likes to “take the piss” just like we do in Britain.

Being white also puts you in a similar position. Some in Hong Kong still have the colonial mentality – a desire to become like the westerners that once ruled. Therefore white people can be placed on pedestals at times.

Others hate westerners. Subjecting them to racial abuse. But of course, not everyone is like that. The majority of Hong Kong citizens are respectful and tolerant. After all, this is one of the most popular destinations for expats.

Western Countries are all Lumped Together by Some

In much the same way that some westerners see Chinese, Korean, Japanese, Taiwanese, Thai, Vietnamese and every other East Asian culture as being the same – some Hong Kongers also do the same as well.

It is understandable. A lot of the countries in western culture have influenced each other, or even been borne out of another western country (Australia and American for example).

Yet I find it highly amusing when I’m introduced to, for example, a French person with the belief from the local host that we will instantly get on because we are from the west. This is despite the fact said French person can only speak broken English, and I speak French like a five-year-old child.

Similarly, some locals find it hard to believe when I tell them that American and British culture actually is not that similar at all, and that we probably share more affinity with Australian culture.

Image and Status is everything out here

Perfectly cut suits, thousand-dollar handbags, black credit card. – image is key. Well it is to be expected from one of the most capitalist societies on earth.

And let’s not forget the business card with your impressive title, that you must hand out with two hands (with a slight bow) to any new professional contact you meet. 

Oh and don’t forget to receive their business cards with two hands, pretend to read it and – don’t you dare put it away in your pocket! Leave it out on the table in his view, for the whole duration of your meeting with him. Respect the name card!

Time is Money. Money is Time

I touched upon the speed at which decisions are made, and work is completed here in Hong Kong in my last blog post. But the thing I didn’t mention is how it permeates into social life as well.

There is no such thing as a slow weekend with no plans, where you decide on Saturday morning with to do with your mates. Everyone plans in advance, no one wastes time.

I recall doing karaoke with local Hong Kongers, and the pushiness of getting through songs so we can sing all the tracks we want in our allocated time.

Or being told hurry up and drink my scalding hot soup, that was just literally placed before me by the waiter at a lunch.

Time is money and money is time, even when you’re supposed to be slowing down and enjoying yourself.

Most Western Brands are Considered Luxury out here

Pret a Manger - a staple of the London office worker is rare out here. And because it’s western, it’s seen as exotic and almost a luxury. Much in the same way a British office coos whenever someone buys a Thai Takeaway for lunch.

Marks and Spencer, already fairly upper market in the UK, is pretty much high class out here. And let’s not mention how even more dear the pricing is…

Macanese People are a Different Breed of Chinese People

Of course, I don’t mean this in a horrible racist way. Rather I mean this in a jovial, appreciate their difference way. I mean, what’s the first thing you think of when you are asked to describe the behaviours of Chinese people? Money driven, extremely hard working, borderline ruthless when it comes to business.

Well Macanese people (the citizens of the once former Portuguese colony of Macau) just aren’t. Or at least they have had their Chinese traits toned down significantly by five hundred years of Portuguese culture and influence. 

They are very laid back and to say the pace of life is slower there is an understatement.

Their approach to life is the complete opposite to those in Hong Kong. And I can say this with a degree of certainty, as my girlfriend lives there.

You miss Football and Pub culture, but this is replaced with other pleasures

Watching the afternoon kick off on a weekend with your mates, sipping a pint whilst taking it easy. Doesn’t really exist out here. If you go out to drink, you will be doing it at night, and more than likely you will be doing it to get drunk.

So for all the English football and pub culture I miss, you replace it with:-

actually playing football; hiking and camping to stunning mountains and beaches;  discovering new restaurants; enjoying the sun (which is a far more familiar sight here than in the UK), meeting new people (far more easy here than in the UK), and exploring those shops and bars hidden away in the higher floors of buildings that somehow seem to receive enough customers for them to pay their eye watering rent.

And to Summarise…

Though it may seem I have been slightly more negative in this post compared to my previous one, I can assure you my mood is far from it. I still think Hong Kong is a fantastic, dynamic, convenient and astonishingly intriguing place.  I have only made deeper analysis of the observations I have of this culture and city. 

Some things are peculiar, some are annoying. But on the whole, it’s still an incredible place, and I cannot foresee a time when I’ll move back to the UK.